Hermès’ Sex and Sensibility
Anders Christian Madsen reviews the Hermès Spring/Summer 2026 collection by Nadège Vanhée.
Because the fetish wardrobe historically adapted the equipment of the equestrian world, there’s a natural correlation between the two. This season, Nadège Vanhée embraced that relationship in an Hermès collection that constantly played with the balance between the hyper-luxurious sophistication of the house and its leatherwork and the sexy, powerful silhouettes and trappings of the bondage wardrobe. She didn’t put it quite as directly backstage, but alluded to the objective: “It’s about freedom and a woman who’s much more assured of her sexiness. The skin is a language. I wanted to reiterate the concept of contact with the world and the wind on the skin.”
Nadège Vanhée took inspiration from the nature of the Camargue, translating the workwear and saddles of the region’s French cowboys into harnesses, bodices, belts, and Bohemian embroideries that adorned a rootsy, sexy wardrobe; part horseman and part dominatrix. Of course, by proxy of Hermès craftsmanship and the sensuality with which Nadège Vanhée imbues her work, the energy of the latter never entered cheesy or over-sexed territory. It was, in her own words, a hybridization: “I think it is important to talk about in today’s world. We embrace the past and the future, and different types of worlds. I wanted to bring the equestrian to a much more bohemian place.”
HERMÈS
Staged in the Garde Républicaine, darkened and warmly lit, with powdery loam cushioning the floor, the strength of the show wasn’t only demonstrated in its empowering silhouette but in a strong accessories game that included some highly covetable city riding boots and big, chunky silver-link bracelets and necklaces. You could already see that omnipresent line on Bond Street extending another few blocks.
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