Flesh tones and a matte coat: Nail artist Jenny Longworth talks through the “strange” nail look featured on Rihanna’s 72 cover
The London-based nail artist recounts the highlight from her decade-long relationship with Rihanna, and the “custom-blended” colour used on her nails for the cover of 72.
If you’ve ever caught yourself admiring one of Rihanna’s pristine nail sets, just know that Jenny Longworth was probably behind it. With a career that spans two decades, the 42-year-old London-based nail artist counts Charli xcx, Harry Styles and Rosalía as clients, alongside the pop icon and 72 cover star. “Editorial nail pioneers” such as Marian Newman and Andrea Fulerton inspired her as a young artist, pushing her to create innovatively and forge soon-to-be nail trends instead of chasing them.
She’s been working on Rihanna’s nails for over a decade, slowly building up a creative partnership founded on a desire to stay ahead of the curve and an embrace of creative license. From gleaming XL gold talons to sleek manicures flashed at the FROW, Jenny’s mastery knows no bounds. So, when it came to dreaming up a fresh set for the star’s 72 cover look, she was the only person for the job.
She joined EE72 following the shoot to let us in on her career highlight – involving Rihanna, a lap dance and the sounds of Lil’ Kim – embracing all things strange for the 72 cover look, and Rihanna’s one non-negotiable when it comes to her nails.
How did you first get into creating nails?
I was a chronic nail-biter when I was younger, so discovering acrylic nails in my teens was transformative. After getting my nails done for a while, the perfectionist inside me decided I could do a better job, so I went and learned the trade myself to earn some extra cash. I later went on to study fashion and make-up design at the University of the Arts London, so the nail thing tied back into that. The rest is history.
Who were your early inspirations?
My early inspirations were rooted in 90s street style and culture, and it was a big part of my coming of age in Birmingham. I became more curious about the fashion world through reading Vogue, and I was also inspired by early editorial nail pioneers like Marian Newman and Andrea Fulerton after reading trade and beauty magazines.
What’s been a career highlight for you?
Being woken up by a lap dance from Riri to the soundtrack of Lil’ Kim was a good one.
Talk us through a day in your life when working on an editorial shoot. Do you have any rituals or routines you swear by?
The main thing for me is making sure all of the logistics are in place and the kit is organised. My team has visual checklists in folders for each bag to ensure everything is replenished and nothing is missing, so I never get caught out. Organisation is key in this job, especially when transitioning quickly between jobs and locations.
Rihanna is one of the most photographed women in the world. How do you make sure your concept is fresh?
As a client, Ri always pushes you. She wants to see new products, textures and effects each time we work together. I go to great lengths to stay at the forefront of nail innovation, researching new products and practicing new techniques.
As a client, Ri always pushes you. She wants to see new products, textures and effects each time we work together. I go to great lengths to stay at the forefront of nail innovation, researching new products and practicing new techniques
Jenny Longworth
What were some of the key products used in Rihanna’s nail look?
We always work with gels on set so there’s no risk of smudging – that’s non-negotiable with Rihanna. We wanted a colour that looked slightly wrong, so I custom-blended a weird fleshy beige and finished this out with a matte gel top coat.
Were there any collaborative moments between you and Rihanna when working on this project? If so, what does that collaboration look like?
We spoke about the style of the photographer’s work and the way he mixes photography and collages to create a 2D world. We wanted something a little strange, not glossy or glamorous, so we decided on a flat matte finish to work within his world.
We spoke about the style of the photographer’s work and the way he mixes photography and collages to create a 2D world. We wanted something a little strange, not glossy or glamorous, so we decided on a flat matte finish to work within his world.
Jenny LongwortH
What’s a nail style you think we should leave behind?
Duck-billed nails.
What’s a product that’s in your kit without fail, and why?
Baby wipes. It’s the only way to clean hands in shows and on sets when there’s no access to hand washing facilities.
Do you have one piece of advice you’d give to someone trying to launch a career in nails?
Work on your references, look at old films, art and fashion and not just current trends. Also, work on your set etiquette and professionalism. Working in session is so much more than just your technical ability.
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