“Beauty, attitude and surprise”: Ammy Drammeh on creating Rihanna’s 72 cover makeup look
The makeup artist reveals the time, products and collaboration that went into crafting Rihanna’s radiant beauty look for 72’s cover
Editorial makeup – brimming with extravagance and showcasing full-coverage glam at its most elevated. Ammy Drammeh – London-based makeup artist to the stars – wants you to know that the key to a flawless editorial beat isn’t in the makeup itself. It’s all in the skin. “Skin prep is everything for me, I spend a lot of time there because beautiful makeup starts long before foundation,” says the 41-year-old MUA. Always equipped with a moisturizer in her kit – which she’s used to paint the faces of Lily-Rose Depp, Kristen Stewart and Sophie Wilde – Drammeh has established herself as a master of the faultless dewy face. Her skill has even caught Chanel’s attention, and she now serves as their global makeup creative partner.
Ammy’s skin-forward approach to beauty was a must-have when it came to choosing a direction for Rihanna’s 72 cover look. Creamy textures and light-weight layers were at the forefront, bringing Ammy’s vintage-yet-futurastic vision of radiance to life, nodding to the 90s beauty campaign that littered her moodboard.
Below, Ammy reveals exactly how long it took to forge Rihanna’s 72 makeup look, and the references she pulled from.
How did you first get into makeup?
I fell in love with makeup at 13 when a classmate let me borrow a Kevyn Aucoin book for a week. I was fascinated by the transformation and how beauty could completely shift a mood, a character, or even the energy in a room.
Who were your early inspirations?
I was really inspired by the artistry coming out of fashion editorials in the late 90s and early 2000s; the balance of raw skin, strong structure and emotion was incredible. Music had a huge influence too, and hip hop and R&B shaped my style and taste.
What’s been your career highlight?
Working with Rihanna was definitely a major moment. She’s such a strong creative force, and she understands beauty on a very instinctive level. Being trusted to help shape an image for someone so iconic is incredibly rewarding.
Working with Rihanna was definitely a major moment. She’s such a strong creative force, and she understands beauty on a very instinctive level. Being trusted to help shape an image for someone so iconic is incredibly rewarding
Ammy Drammeh
Talk us through a day in your life when working on an editorial shoot. Do you have any rituals or routines you swear by?
I like to arrive early and create a calm atmosphere before things become hectic. Skin prep is everything for me; I spend a lot of time there because beautiful makeup starts long before foundation. Music is also a huge part of my process. The energy on set really affects the work, so I always try to keep things collaborative and relaxed.
What references were on your mood board for this shoot?
There were references from vintage beauty campaigns, glossy 90s editorials, old Hollywood portrait lighting, and a little bit of futurism. We wanted something elevated and polished, but still emotionally connected and modern.
Rihanna is one of the most photographed women in the world. How do you make sure your concept feels fresh?
You have to avoid chasing trends just for the sake of it. With someone like Rihanna, it’s about finding the balance between beauty, attitude and surprise. Sometimes freshness comes from restraint; maybe it’s the skin texture, the shape of a lip, or the way light hits the face. It’s really about creating a feeling rather than overcomplicating the makeup.
What were some of the key products used in Rihanna’s look?
The focus was definitely radiant skin with dimension, so complexion products were key. We used lightweight layers, cream textures, strategic highlighting and rich tones around the eyes to create depth without making the look feel heavy.
How long did the look take to create?
It took around one hour and thirty minutes. Editorial beauty is very detail-oriented. Even when the makeup appears effortless, there’s a lot of precision behind it. It is also a dance between everyone in the glam team – hair, makeup and nails happen simultaneously, and it takes a lot of collaborative spirit.
Were there any collaborative moments between you and Rihanna when working on this project? If so, what does that collaboration look like?
Absolutely. The best creative relationships are always collaborative. Rihanna is very visual and very instinctive, so there were a lot of discussions with her, Szilvester, the photographer and Edward Enninful around mood, references, and what feels exciting in the moment. Sometimes the strongest ideas happen organically once everyone’s in the room together.
Rihanna is very visual and very instinctive,
so there were a lot of discussions with her, Szilveszter Makó, the photographer and Edward Enninful around mood, references, and what feels exciting in the moment. Sometimes the strongest ideas happen organically once everyone’s in the room together
Ammy Drammeh
What’s a makeup style or trend you’re loving right now?
I’m not really good at following trends, but I am loving skin that still looks like skin and makeup that enhances rather than masks. There’s also a return to individuality happening right now, which I think is really exciting. People are becoming less interested in perfection and more interested in identity.
What’s a product that’s in your kit without fail, and why?
A really good moisturizer and a versatile cream product. They make the makeup feel alive.
Do you have one piece of advice you’d give to someone trying to launch a career in makeup?Assist whenever you can and stay curious. Technical skill matters, but your eye, taste and professionalism are what really shape your career. Also, learn lighting. It changes everything.
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