We asked six of today’s most exciting makeup talents to create a MODERN FACE
Photography Phil Engelhardt
Styling Eniola Dare
Burnished Minimalism by FARA HOMIDI
“I like the idea of this sort of heat throughout the face. That was my starting point,” says Fara Homidi, the New York-based artist and brand founder known for her crisp, streamlined style. She created a dimensional, burnished complexion by layering three different shades of matte bronzer, fanning the color out towards the edges of the face. The placement was “less for contouring or blush. It’s in places where you would noticeably see a flush if you were, all of a sudden, overheated,” she says. Her “blazing lip” took its inspiration from actual fire, where “the outer edges are a brighter red and as you get to the center, it’s more of an orange.” An unexpected baby-blue eye adds a touch of iciness — and nostalgia. “For me, growing up, a red lip and blue eye shadow, that’s what ‘wearing makeup’ meant,” says Homidi. “I wanted to play on the idea of your first makeup look. The fact that the blue shadow is more of a cream, and it’s hand-applied — not your grandmother’s powder — brings it into the modern era.”
JEAN WEARS GOLD HARDWEAR EARRINGS, TIFFANY & CO. ESSENTIAL LIP COMPACT IN RED 2, ESSENTIAL EYE COMPACT IN NO. 61, AND ESSENTIAL BRONZER COMPACT IN LUMEN, ROMA, AND OMBRA, FARA HOMIDI.
PHOTOGRAPHY PHIL ENGELHARDT AT JOLLY COLLECTIVE. STYLING ENIOLA DARE. MAKEUP FARA HOMIDI. HAIR CLAIRE GRECH AT STREETERS. MODEL JEAN CAMPBELL AT PERSPECTIVE.
The Ombré Lip by MATA MARIELLE
If you haven’t already heard of the “Mata lip”, feast your eyes: it’s ombré. Lacquered, almost. Its mesmerizing liquid tones impart the feeling of molten lava. It’s the calling card of London born-and-bred Mata Marièlle. Achieving her signature lip is an involved process that entails the lining, blending, and layering of a constellation of products — a handful of MAC eye pencils (“they take a lot to budge”) and shellac-like Lipglass, Danessa Myricks’ metallic pigments — not to mention the burning of a lip liner. The what? “I burn the edges. Just brush it through the flame to warm it up, then, wait a second. Do you have a lighter?” This technique, she says, turns a classic pencil into a liquid lipstick that glides on to skin and then sets. “I’ve been burning liners for years. It’s major.” The end result reminds Marièlle of a painting. “If you look closely, you’ll be able to see the different shades and textures. It’s magical,” she says dreamily. “You can do a one-tone lipstick, but that’s a little boring. Why not put five tones on and see where you go?”
BEBE WEARS GOLD EARRINGS, BVLGARI. COTTON TOP ARKET. EYE KOHL IN FELINE, EYE PENCIL IN COFFEE, LIP PENCIL IN CHESTNUT, AND LIPGLASS IN CLEAR, M·A·C. COLOR FIX LIQUID METALS IN HOT FIRE AND GILDED, DANESSA MYRICKS.
PHOTOGRAPHY PHIL ENGELHARDT AT JOLLY COLLECTIVE. STYLING ENIOLA DARE. MAKEUP MATA MARIÉLLE AT THE WALL GROUP. HAIR PÅL BERDAHL AT LGA MANAGEMENT. MODEL BEBE PARNELL AT NEXT MANAGEMENT.
Anti-Glam by LYNSEY ALEXANDER
“I did this look in lipsticks,” says Scottish makeup artist Lynsey Alexander. Indeed, she did. That’s two swipes of lip color on the lids — a flame-orange applied, war-paint style, above a slash of hot pink (with a last-minute dash of gold vermeil eye shadow dusted on with fingertips at the corners “to give it a lift”) — and a painstakingly drawn mahogany mouth. Diving deep into the clashing, contrasting “ugly colors,” as she calls them, is par for the course for Alexander who, as global creative makeup artist for Prada Beauty, was charged with developing a signature makeup palette that would be true to the DNA of the Milanese house. The look she created here “took on an artisanal feeling. I wanted it to be abstract and free, not bound by the concept of beauty as we know it. Punky elements,” she continues, pumped-up with a confident use of color. “Orange and pink — they’re not sweet, they’re powerful. This pink’s got guts.” And yet, for all of the look’s professed “anti-glamour,” Thea “still looks gorgeous and sultry,” says Alexander. “Makeup is about pushing and pulling. You always have to ask: Is it beautiful? It can be radical, quirky, off-key, but it should always make someone feel beautiful.”
THEA WEARS MONOCHROME SOFT MATTE LIPSTICK IN 0177 FLAMINGO, MONOCHROME HYPER MATTE LIPSTICK IN P55 FUXIA, MONOCHROME HYPER MATTE LIPSTICK IN B03 MAHOGANY, DIMENSIONS EYESHADOW COMPACT IN 05 PURE, AND PRADASCOPE LASH EXTENDING VOLUME MASCARA, PRADA BEAUTY.
PHOTOGRAPHY PHIL ENGELHARDT AT JOLLY COLLECTIVE. STYLING ENIOLA DARE. MAKEUP LYNSEY ALEXANDER AT JOLLY COLLECTIVE USING PRADA BEAUTY. HAIR DANIEL MARTIN. MODEL THEA ALMQVIST AT PERSPECTIVE.
Modern Metal by ISAMAYA FFRENCH
“I don’t know that I have a beauty philosophy other than that I just do what I feel is new and interesting,” says Isamaya Ffrench, the avant-garde artist known for her playful and boundary-pushing approach to makeup. For this look, “I wanted to create something that felt unusual, which is a bit ethereal and otherworldly,” she says. That translated to a bold take on metallics. “I love metals because they feel very modern. I wanted to do them in a sophisticated, minimal way,” says Ffrench, who used products from her Isamaya range to create a molten lip and gilded waterline, a shimmering high-gloss lid and a plummy cheek. Her hydrating Face Glaze gave Aluel’s complexion a glassy finish Ffrench describes as “liquid. It’s about clean, elevated skin and those beautiful details with a twist.”
ALUEL WEARS METAL LIP BALM IN GUILDED, FACE GLAZE, AND SKIN ENHANCING DUO IN CHAR, ISAMAYA.
PHOTOGRAPHY PHIL ENGELHARDT AT JOLLY COLLECTIVE. STYLING ENIOLA DARE. MAKEUP ISAMAYA FFRENCH AT ART + COMMERCE. HAIR PÅL BERDAHL AT LGA MANAGEMENT. MODEL ALUEL MAKUACH AT ELITE MODEL MANAGEMENT.
The Fuchsia Feline Eye by AMMY DRAMMEH
“I was quite inspired by Sunira’s face. Very strong. The most amazing eyes,” says London-based, Barcelona-born Ammy Drammeh. “I wanted to do something that has the essence of a glam look, but technical, with a bit of ingenuity.” For the precisely drawn ultra-violet eye that resulted, Drammeh, a member of Chanel’s artist collective, “stretched” the color, accented with graphic white pencil, along the upper and lower lash-lines in toward the corners and out toward the temples for “that feline, really big, theatrical feeling.” Wispy, almost romantic, individually placed lashes add to the drama. To keep the focus squarely on the eyes, Drammeh bleached the model’s brows. “She has great eyebrows, but I thought, if I remove the brows, if I make them disappear, I have more space for makeup. So that’s the first thing I did.” Indeed, the impact of Drammeh’s look was achieved as much by what she did, as by what she didn’t do. “No highlighter, no blush, no lip color. Balance isn’t always what I’m looking for when I create a look. I chose to leave everything else quite raw and natural.”
SUNIRA WEARS LES 4 OMBRES MULTI-EFFECT QUADRA EYE SHADOW IN TISSÉ CAMBON, LE LINER DE CHANEL LIQUID EYELINER IN NOIR PROFOND, LE VOLUME DE CHANEL WATERPROOF MASCARA IN NOIR, AND HYDRA BEAUTY NUTRITION NOURISHING LIP CARE, CHANEL.
PHOTOGRAPHY PHIL ENGELHARDT AT JOLLY COLLECTIVE. STYLING ENIOLA DARE. MAKEUP AMMY DRAMMEH AT BRYANT ARTISTS. HAIR PÅL BERDAHL AT LGA MANAGEMENT. MODEL SUNIRA DA SILVA AT IMG MODEL.
Brushed-Up Brows & Spiky Lashes by LUCY BRIDGE
“The bolder the better,” Lucy Bridge says of her signature aesthetic. “That’s the reason I get booked — to do a real look.” She’s talking about her work with designers like Dries Van Noten and Haider Ackermann, “real masters of their craft who appreciate strong makeup.” For the spiky, textural caterpillar brows and lashes Bridge created here, she used a past runway look she’d created for Van Noten as a jumping-off point. Influenced by abstract 1960s makeup and the singer Mina, it was punctuated by a “heavy, doe-eyed extreme lash, pulled out at the corners, really graphic.” Here, she added a fluffy, dramatically brushed-up brow to add contrast and individuality. “I created this look for Libby because she has such great brows,” says Bridge, who reports “they were pretty much all hers.” Tom Ford’s clear Eyebrow Laminator added separation and hold, and a finish that was “slightly glossy and wet — that really modernizes the brow, changing the texture,” she says.
LIBBY WEARS TOP LASHES: 83 S IREN L ASH A ND L ASHIFY STARBURST 12MM A ND 14MM, MAC. LOWER L ASHES: LOWER E YELASHES U1 A ND U2, KRYOLAN. PRO LONGWEAR FLUIDLINE EYELINER IN BLACKTRACK, MAC. EYEBROW LAMINATOR IN CLEAR, TOM FORD.
PHOTOGRAPHY PHIL ENGELHARDT AT JOLLY COLLECTIVE. STYLING ENIOLA DARE. MAKEUP LUCY BRIDGE AT STREETERS. HAIR DANIEL MARTIN. MODEL LIBBY BENNETT AT BOUNDARY MODELS.
CASTING PIERGIORGIO DEL MORO FOR DM CASTING
PRODUCTION BELLHOUSE / PATRICK ARMSTRONG
PHOTO ASSISTANTS KLAUDIJA AVOTINA AND MARIA GORODETSKAYA
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