Duran Lantink makes his Gaultier Couture debut
At Jean Paul Gaultier, Duran Lantink made a tubular haute couture debut rooted in experimentation. EE72 Fashion Critic Anders Christian Madsen reviews the show.
On an haute couture schedule that’s currently lacking the mad gestures of experimentation that contribute to keeping these old crafts alive, Duran Lantink’s debut for Jean Paul Gaultier was a welcome addition. It took place in the hallowed runway hall of Gaultier’s building on Rue Saint Martin where a brightly lit, minimal set created a white canvas for Lantink’s voluminous form language. Loosely inspired by the courtly dress of the Ancien Régime – with spoken references to Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette on the soundtrack – the Dutch designer presented a highly engineered take on the couture codes of the house.
Seated next to Catherine Deneuve (talk about royalty!), Jean Paul Gaultier himself looked on as Lantink sent out tubular evening dresses bursting with tulle from décolletés and derrières, suspended crinolines, vase-like rigid gowns, and boys in warped statuesque torsos and floor-sweeping headbands. The founder had given him a book on the costumes he created for Régine Chopinot’s ballets. ”I found these quite amazing silhouettes with tubes, which was kind of the starting point. Like, ‘What can we do with tube?’ We started thinking about these explosions of tubes,” Lantink explained.
The study eventually evolved into studies of the body itself, where the tubes became extensions of the physique. In the less experimental department, Lantink proposed dressed shingled beautifully in different expressions of plume, and various ideas of trompe l’oeil – a cable sweater dress, a vitrine ballgown – realised through the mastery of the Gaultier couture atelier. “At the end of the day, what is most important for me is that I stay curious, I stay open, and I don’t see things as weird,” Lantink said. It was the right attitude for a new-generation couturier, and one he’ll hopefully push a lot further in seasons to come.
At the end of the day, what is most important for me is that I stay curious, I stay open, and I don’t see things as weird
Duran Lantink
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