At Balmain, Courrèges and Schiaparelli, Paris Fashion Week opened with a mood of clarity as designers distilled their houses’ codes in a time of creative and commercial recalibration.
From debuts to swansongs and anniversaries, the first half of the Fall/Winter 2026 shows in Paris has felt like a fashion reset. Not in the way we used the word “reset” during the pandemic – or even last season when some fourteen houses premiered new designers – but in a visual sense. At Balmain, incoming designer Antonin Tron reduced the house codes to their 1940s core, presenting a nocturnal, film noir-ish proposal with silhouettes informed by archival finds from the year after Pierre Balmain founded his house. “The gowns from 1946 were so restrained. Very minimal. There’s a controlled opulence, which I think is key,” Tron said after the show.
BALMAIN, WOMEN’S FALL/WINTER 2026 BY ANTONIN TRON
Marking a quietly loud departure from the ferocious abundance of Olivier Rousteing’s impressive reign, the new designer’s black, broad-shouldered debut reflected the indecisiveness of our approach to self-expression in times of turmoil: we kind of want power-dressing, but make it polite… Maybe even pragmatic? That was the feeling conveyed in Nicolas di Felice’s fifth anniversary collection for Courrèges based on “the idea of a 24-hour wardrobe,” as the designer explained. The collection consolidated many of the codes – old as well as new – that have made the house a hit with new generations looking for directional clothes that are also easy to wear.
COURRÈGES, WOMEN’S FALL/WINTER 2026 BY NICOLAS DIFELICE
Set to the sounds of traffic and everyday life, di Felice’s collection was a reality check: straightforward, streamlined and super saleable. A recap of his overall proposal at the house, it also felt like a reset before a new chapter. In contrast, Pieter Mulier’s final show for Alaïa – which also reduced the house’s codes into clear, minimal expressions – was more of a reflection on everything he’d learned during his five years at the house. Soon, he’ll move to Milan and begin a new era as creative director of Versace. (Read EE72’s full review of the Alaïa show.)
Between the purified expressions at Balmain, Courrèges and Alaïa, the message was clarity: linear outlines of the core aesthetic each house has to offer in a time when the fashion industry is grappling with the balance between creativity and commerciality. At Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry conceptualised that concept. “Fashion is a major business, but it’s also the ultimate forum of self-expression and fantasy. Both things are true at the same time – but that doesn’t mean that there isn’t an inherent tension between these two truths,” he wrote in his self-penned show notes.
SCHIAPARELLI, ‘SPHYNX’: THE FALL/WINTER 2026 READY-TO-WEAR COLLECTION BY DANIEL ROSEBERRY
He let that tension inspire a collection founded in contrasts. Backed up by a blissful Janet Jackson soundtrack, his expression was by no means as reduced as those of the aforementioned shows. But within the surreal opulence that characterises Schiaparelli, Roseberry did propose a more subdued offering for the season’s commercial appetite. It played to a Paris Fashion Week taking place in the shadow of huge global conflict where designers – and their influential CEOs – are clarifying and consolidating their output, carving out the kind of minimal opulence Antonin Tron defined so astutely. Through a historical lens, though, political upheaval will inevitably call for grander gestures of creativity.
“Fight for what you want to say”: In Rome, Alessandro Michele uses his Valentino platform “Fight for what you want to say”: In Rome, Alessandro Michele uses his Valentino platform
“Fight for what you want to say”: In Rome, Alessandro Michele uses his Valentino platform
“As a human, you are enough”: Small clothes for a big world at Miu Miu “As a human, you are enough”: Small clothes for a big world at Miu Miu
“As a human, you are enough”: Small clothes for a big world at Miu Miu
“We all need a little charm, don’t we?” Nicolas Ghesquière’s hyper-creative Louis Vuitton show “We all need a little charm, don’t we?” Nicolas Ghesquière’s hyper-creative Louis Vuitton show
“We all need a little charm, don’t we?” Nicolas Ghesquière’s hyper-creative Louis Vuitton show
Translating the codes of the house for new generations: Matthieu Blazy’s sophomore collection for Chanel Translating the codes of the house for new generations: Matthieu Blazy’s sophomore collection for Chanel
Translating the codes of the house for new generations: Matthieu Blazy’s sophomore collection for Chanel
“Psychological dysfunction”: At McQueen, a portrait of collective perfectionism “Psychological dysfunction”: At McQueen, a portrait of collective perfectionism
“Psychological dysfunction”: At McQueen, a portrait of collective perfectionism
“In the end, there is only black”: At Comme des Garçons, a flash of pink in a world of black “In the end, there is only black”: At Comme des Garçons, a flash of pink in a world of black
“In the end, there is only black”: At Comme des Garçons, a flash of pink in a world of black
“Conceal and reveal”: A very sensual Hermès “Conceal and reveal”: A very sensual Hermès
“Conceal and reveal”: A very sensual Hermès
A confident yet spontaneous spirit of dressing: Michael Rider’s Celine A confident yet spontaneous spirit of dressing: Michael Rider’s Celine
A confident yet spontaneous spirit of dressing: Michael Rider’s Celine
“I just want to shout the words ‘humanity’ and ‘joy’: Haider Ackermann’s bright future “I just want to shout the words ‘humanity’ and ‘joy’: Haider Ackermann’s bright future
“I just want to shout the words ‘humanity’ and ‘joy’: Haider Ackermann’s bright future
Intimate and wholly electric; Gabriel Moses photographs his girlfriend Shiva Ruby Intimate and wholly electric; Gabriel Moses photographs his girlfriend Shiva Ruby
Intimate and wholly electric; Gabriel Moses photographs his girlfriend Shiva Ruby
Meet the designers shaping fashion’s future Meet the designers shaping fashion’s future
Meet the designers shaping fashion’s future
Nearly 40 years on, Kate Moss is still the model of the moment Nearly 40 years on, Kate Moss is still the model of the moment
Nearly 40 years on, Kate Moss is still the model of the moment
Ajus Samuel and Jacqui Hooper go big and go bold Ajus Samuel and Jacqui Hooper go big and go bold
Ajus Samuel and Jacqui Hooper go big and go bold
The second album is the hardest. Get ready for fashion’s sophomore season The second album is the hardest. Get ready for fashion’s sophomore season
The second album is the hardest. Get ready for fashion’s sophomore season
The King and I: In memory of the late Giorgio Armani The King and I: In memory of the late Giorgio Armani
The King and I: In memory of the late Giorgio Armani
Boys ‘N’ Bags Boys ‘N’ Bags
