Girly, granny chic: Meryll Rogge gets generational at Marni
For Spring-Summer 2027, Meryll Rogge explored what it means to evolve a house, drawing on Marni’s intergenerational appeal and the expressive styling that first made her fall for the brand. Anders Christian Madsen reviews the show.
In her second collection for Marni, Meryll Rogge went meta. “We had lots of conversations throughout the season about how, when you enter a brand, what do you bring and what do you take away?” she said after the show, staged in the brand’s Viale Umbria space. “It was that dialogue between the positive and the negative that came in, quite symbolically, because you’re evolving a house. But we also took it quite literally.” The idea appeared in the holes created by industrial buckles and straps embedded within garments, and in the stripped-off effects that ran through Rogge’s deconstructed dresses, which almost looked like pieces of cardboard that had been ripped into to reveal their layers.
Rogge had also been thinking about the new chapter that Marni represents in her life, and how the brand can follow people through their lives. “Marni is a very intergenerational brand. We just launched our first bag and I loved when our retail director told me that the first one he sold was to a seventeen-year-old girl, and the second one he sold was to an eighty-year-old woman. I couldn’t wish for more. I think that’s just so wonderful,” she said. You could detect that sensibility in the granny and grandpa chic that emanated from the collection’s paled 1960s dresses, aged and shrunken leather jackets, and cosy heritage knitwear; all of which in turn looked quite girly and boyish as well. The fashion circle of life.
Rogge spoke about her own teenage years and how, back then, she’d fangirl over Consuelo Castiglioni’s hyper-expressive creations. These days, much of the aspirational value young people find in fashion brands has as much to do with styling – fashioning that runway look for yourself – as it does with the garments themselves. If you want to be a Marni woman or man, or maybe both at the same time, your go-to girl is Rogge’s stylist Tamara Rothstein, whom she shares with the eminent designer Martine Rose, and whose character-driven styling was evident in the creation of the Marni girls and boys who walked Rogge’s show. Hats off to both women for a great sophomore proposal.
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