7 Questions with
COS’ Design Director Karin Gustafsson

SARAH HARRIS

How did you approach the Autumn/Winter 2025 collection?

KARIN GUSTAFSSON

We called the collection Dark Romance, it’s really an ode to refined, considered and relevant design. It was very much about this palette of rich, inky darks – black, steel grey and deep navy and we looked at the 50s a lot to elevate the silhouette, but to also maintain an effortless feel. When it came to the menswear, it was a lot about heritage, function and utility but luxuriously so. There is always an emphasis on great quality fabrics. We always want the wearer to shine, we never want the clothes to overpower the person, and I think that’s a real strength of this brand.

SH

You’ve been with Cos since 2006, how has the brand and the team evolved in that time?

KG

I’ve been there almost 20 years; we opened the first store in 2007. I’ve had a good time! I think what has changed with time, in terms of product, is this huge shift in silhouette. I still have many of my Cos pieces from the first collection and the cut is so different, they’re so small, so that has been a big change; shifting those proportions and literally reshaping how women dress. And of course the team is the most important, without the team you are nothing.

SH

Tell us about the show venue?

KG

The runway unfolded inside the Greenpoint Terminal Warehouse along Brooklyn’s waterfront, which was built in the 1890s and used to be a rope-making factory. We transformed this really quite raw, industrial setting into a spectacle of modernist elegance with pristine white. The cavernous space became an almost architectural stage for the collection to come to life. As part of our efforts to support creativity, we will donate our show venue space to Rachel Scott, for Diotima’s show on Monday 15th September. This includes internet, generator power and cabling, lighting, benches, back of house racks, draping, tables and chairs, radios and hair and makeup set-up.

SH

Post show, what other donations did you make?

KG

The painted muslin that wraps the entire set will be donated to Materials for the Arts, a creative reuse centre supporting the arts. All leftover food after each meal will be donated to various charities around the city, and florals from the show will be given to BloomAgainBklyn, a community-based, non-profit organisation which repurposes flowers into new arrangements and distributes them to homebound seniors, local nursing home residents, and other moderate and low income populations.

SH

What are your favourite looks from this show?

KG

I love the first look and the last look, they are my favourites. The first is a very feminine navy blue jacket, gently pulled in at the waist, a modern take on the 50s and the last look is a super minimal tailored jacket with mannish trousers. They’re quite contrasting looks and I love them both.

SH

And everything is available to buy now? 

KG

Right now! I love the immediacy of that, to do a show and then for people to be able to buy it right away.

SH

Describe yourself in 3 words.

KG

I would say I’m fairly easy going, but I’m also a determined person, and I think I’m fair, I always say to treat others how you would want to be treated yourself. I know that’s more than 3 words!